Is growing roses simple? Well, while some varieties may be finicky, there need not be any great mystery, in general, surrounding the growing of this traditional favorite ,The formula for success is a well-known one, since it is a formula that the average landscape plant lives (or dies) by:
sun + water + drainage + rich soil = success in growing roses
Roses can range in form from miniature shrubs to sprawling climbers. Once you’re committed to following the formula for growing roses, for maximum success you’ll simply have to tweak the formula a bit and add some extras. For instance:
While roses like six hours of sun per day, it does matter what part of the day those six hours come from. Six hours of morning sun is preferable to six hours of afternoon sun, for two reasons:
1-Rose foliage prefers to be dry. The quicker the dampness from the night is burned off the foliage, the less likely disease is to become a factor.
2-The afternoon sun is often excessively hot. Roses profit from some afternoon shade.
To keep insect pests off your roses, try companion planting with garlic. And once per week, while watering your roses, mix some dishwashing soap into the water and apply this “insecticidal soap” to your bushes (of course, there are also true insecticidal soaps that you can buy).
As always, soil pH is a consideration. Roses grow best in a pH ranging from 6.5 to 6.8.
For fertilizing roses, a monthly feeding of rose food is recommended.
Care for Roses on the Landscape: Overwintering, Watering:
In cold climates roses can be mulched, but if you really want to make sure your shrubs are protected, practice a winterizing method called the “Minnesota Tip.”
Roses need a lot of water (how much “a lot” is will depend, of course, on many factors). As in the case of sunlight hours (see above), not all rose-watering methods are created equal. On the average, it is best to water roses twice a week — and to water them thoroughly. It would be better to water twice per week deeply than to apply four shallower, less thorough waterings over the same time period.
These are some of the basics of growing roses. Not too difficult, right? In fact, since there’s a logical reason behind all these tips, they should be easy to remember. If you’re still hesitant, Candy Oh! Vivid Red is an example of a type of Rosa that is particularly easy to grow.
pruning rose bushes is one of the trickier operations for gardeners new to this aspect of horticulture. About’s Gardening Guide provides excellent information on the subject of pruning. The proper type of pruners to use is a set of bypass pruners, not anvil pruners (the latter can crush the plant’s stem).
One aspect of the task that is somewhat debated is whether or not to promote outward-facing shoots when pruning rose bushes. That is, pruning tends to generate a lateral cane at the node below your cut. You can influence the shape of the shrub by making your cut either just above an outward-facing leaf bud or an inward-facing leaf bud. An argument in favor of selecting an outward-facing bud is that you promote growth away from the shrub’s center, which facilitates air flow and decreases the chance that you’ll experience problems with mildew. But an expert at the American Rose Society — and who would know better? — disputes that this method need to be taken as a universal principle.The idea behind deadheading roses is the same as it is for any other plant. Removing spent blooms from rose bushes is a way of channeling plant energy into areas where it is needed more.
Plant Information for Selecting Rose Bushes:
Hybrid tea rose bushes are the most popular, because they put out a big rose on a straight stem. Polyanthas produce dense clusters of small flowers on a dwarf rose bush. Floribunda rose bushes are a cross between the hybrid teas and the polyanthas. Grandifloras produce large rose clusters on long stems. Other options for rose bush growers include miniatures, climbers, tree roses and old-time varieties. Don’t be fooled by so-called “black roses”; that designation evokes intriguing images, but the flowers are really only a deep red
Preparing Rose Bush Beds
Soil in rose beds should be conditioned properly to a depth of 3′, as outlined in the following steps provided by Hometime.com:
Remove about 1 1/2′ of soil in depth.
Spread a layer of organic amendment about 3″ thick over the bottom of the hole.
Dig down into the soil another 1 1/2′ and turn that over, mixing in the organic amendment.
Shovel the first foot of soil back into the bed and spread another 3″ layer of amendments over that.
Optional: Add bone meal, which promotes root growth. You can also use fertilizers designed specifically for roses.
Till the bed with a rototiller to mix the layers together.
Now you can dig the hole in which your rose bush will sit. Make it approximately 2′ x 2′ x 2′. What about that extra foot in depth that you’ve already prepared for? That’s for drainage. For further planting instructions, see below.
Planting Bare Root Rose Bushes
You can buy the more expensive container-grown rose bushes and plant them in the ground, but why would you want to? Bare root planting is safe for the plants and economical for you. The most difficult chore in the planting may well be the initial pruning that you have to do. The height of the canes should be reduced to 6″- 8″. It will probably seem a shame to be hacking down the canes this way before the rose bush has even had a chance to grow. But it’s a necessary step: the root system is too meager at this point to support much growth above ground. Trim off damaged roots, too, since they’ll only invite disease. For a detailed article on the subject, see Marie Iannotti’s piece on planting bare root rose bushes. I will restrict myself here merely to emphasizing the importance of one trick of the trade, the reason behind which may not be immediately obvious.Novices to rose bush growing are informed to follow bed preparation with digging a hole and mounding up a cone of soil within that hole (see the illustration at the top of this page). You may wonder what purpose such a cone serves. Draping the young roots over this cone is meant to give them some direction in life. Being young and foolish, if not shown the proper direction to take, they may wander aimlessly. Roots need to be encouraged to grow down, deep. The cone guides them down just this path. Shallow root growth is to be discouraged, because such roots are exposed to summer heat and winter cold — neither of which is good for them. By encouraging deep root penetration right at the outset, you’re taking a major step towards successful rose bush growing.